I had heard the phrase “the mountain calls you” but never really understood it until this trip .
We planned and booked this trip in less than 2 weeks. It all started with the desire for safari, then Kilimanjaro hike was added and finally it was Zanzibar where our trip ended. We decided to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro first, then do the safari and then enjoy the beach. It was a good decision.
Mt Kilimanjaro summit:
Based on the little research we could do, we chose the 8-day Lemosho route for our ascent as it offered more time for acclimatization to the altitude. Then we started looking for companies with whom we could hike. We settled in for a local and relatively new company www.karibuadventure.com, as their service fees matched our budget, they could match our dates, and, they were prompt in replying to our emails.
Facts:
1)pack layers of clothing from base layers, to woolen/fleece mid layers to down jackets. Woolen socks, warm gloves and woolen hats are a must.
2)we took Diamox twice everyday(125 mg at a time) for altitude sickness. It did work and also gave us tingling feeling in the most unimaginable places. Apart from Diamox, I took a paracetamol on the summit day for a light headache.However, before leaving for the trip, please consult the travel medicine department at your doctor’s office for shots and other medicines.
3)drink lots of water- 2-3 liters as it is like medicine at such elevations.
4)eat well. In fact force yourself to eat. Our group finished one and a half jar of peanut butter in 6 days.
5)carry your favorite snacks- cereal/protein bars, chocolates etc. We carried oreo too.
6)bring your sun screen/sun hat
7)we made a great decision to bring wet wipes. It was immensely useful.
8)public toilets are pit toilets and you have to leave your senses behind(as one of our co-hikers said) before entering them. However, some companies provide toilet tents.
9)tipping is important.For each member of the crew from the guide to the assistant guide to the chef and finally the porters there is a range from which one can pay. Our group made it a point to tip the porters at the maximum of the range.
List of items to bring:
One sleeping bag
• One pair of climbing poles/sticks
• One large Duffle bag / rucksack
• One head lamp / Flashlight + Batteries
• Water bottle – 2 liters x 2 bottle or camel bag bottle
• Camera / sufficient memory
• One pair sunglasses
• One pair of climbing hiking boots
• One pair of tennis Shoes – to begin climb
• Socks – thin and thick pairs
• One warm trousers
• Woolen Trousers and jacket with zippers
• Water proof / wind trousers & jackets
• Warm Sweater for cold nights
• Inner slacks – long Johns & Top
• Long / short sleeve T-shirt with zippers
• Pajamas and hand towel
• Shade Sun hat or cap
• Balaclava
• Gaiters
• Mitten / Gloves – poly thermal
We got a Duffle bag, sleeping bags, ski pants, thick down jackets and head lamps from our company. Balaclava and gaiters were not needed. We did not have them.
Here is the detailed altitude information:
http://www.ultimatekilimanjaro.com/lemosho_route.htm
Day1:
Londorossi Gate to Big Tree Camp site, 6 km
Rain forest
We met our guide Charles Melissa in the morning on Aug 11th. He checked our gears/equipments and made a list of the items that we were missing. Within an hour, he got all the missing stuff from his office ad we were packed and ready to go(these items were provided at no extra charge).Our guide informed us that 2 other couple would be joining us. That brought our group size to 6. We started at around 10:00 am from the hotel. After a 3 hour long drive with breaks, we reached the registration center in the Kilimanjaro National Park. After registration, we had lunch and drove for another 40 mins to the Londorossi gate(7742 ft). On the way we saw a group of black and white Colobus monkeys. By the time we started the hike, it was close to 4 pm. We reached the Big Tree campsite at Mt. Mkubwa(9498 ft) around 6:00 pm. The hike was very pleasant through the rain forests. Our tents were already set up.Soon, we had popcorn with hot chocolate in the dining tent followed by yummy dinner of soup, vegetable stew and rice. Our health check was done every day after breakfast and after dinner.
There was a 21 person crew with us including the guide, 2 assistant guides, a chef and porters.
Day2:
Forrest camp to Shira 1, 8km
Rain Forest to Moorland
It was a long hike day. After a hearty breakfast of toast, porridge, eggs and fruits, we started for Shira 1 camp around 8:30 am. We got lunch boxes to carry in our day packs. We hiked and reached the camp around 3:00 PM. Here we got the first view of the kibo – Kilimanjaro peak. It seemed impossible to climb. After evening snack, we played cards today. It was a lot of fun.We were at an elevation of 11,500 ft.
The weather was just great -overcast and no windchill.
Day3:
Shira1 to Shira 2, 10km
Moorland
Today, we again started around 8:30 am and hiked 10 km to the Shira2 camp via the Cathedral peak. We got some spectacular views from the Cathedral peak. Hot lunch awaited us on reaching the camp.After some rest, we started our evening ritual of card games. Soon, we were tucked in our sleeping bags. We were at an elevation of 12500 ft. Healthwise, everything was ok so far. The weather played a fair game today as well. We were above the clouds.
Day4:
Shira 2- Barranco, 11km
Moorland to semi desert
It was a long day. We went up to around15092 ft to lava tower before descending to the Barranco camp at 13044 ft for the night. After lunch at Lava tower, we crossed the beautiful alpine vegetation with lobelia dekenii plants at many places. The descent was beautiful with mist all around. When we reached the camp at 3:30 pm, it was getting dark and damp. We were at an elevation of 13044 ft. We took a nap before heading to the dining tent.
After dinner, the guide gave us 2 options. First was to stick to the original plan and start the summit at midnight on Day 7. Option 2 was to start the summit on Day 6 at around 4:00 am. This would mean skipping the Karanga campsite and directly going to the Barafu campsite on Day 5. We did a poll and everyone agreed with option 2 as it would mean one day less on the mountains. It would also mean sleeping well before the actual summit and summiting in warm daylight. Again, no weather complaints.
Day 5:
Barranco to Barafu, 9km
Alpine desert
After the morning ritual, we started around 8:15 am from Barranco camp and climbed the Barranco wall. There were a couple of switchbacks on the way to the Barafu campsite. We were at the campsite by 2:30 pm at an elevation of 15331 ft. Everyone was feeling tired and after a hot lunch, took some rest. We had an early dinner and the final health check up. I could not sleep the whole night. Partly because of anxiety and partly because of the noise from the outside as few groups were leaving for the midnight summit. Weather Gods were very kind upon us.
Day 6:
Barafu camp to Uhuru Peak, 5km, Arctic
Uhuru peak to Barafu camp to Millennium camp, 10km
After a light breakfast, we started around 4:30 am in the dark and cold. I was in 6 layers on the top and 3 layers at the bottom. Besides, I had 2 caps and 2 pairs of socks on. I was warmly packed and comfortable. We were moving “pole pole” – Swahili for slow and one step at a time. I was looking at and following each step of the person ahead of me. Around 5:30 am or 6:00 am, sun began to pop up. The clouds were below us like a thick layer or freshly made cotton candy. It was very calm there.
We were taking frequent breaks for snacks, water and pee. Soon, we were climbing on scree. It was not windy at all. Finally around 12:00, we reached Stella point. It was at an elevation of 18640 ft. We did not stop there and kept moving until we reached our destination Uhuru peak at 19341 ft. On the way, the clouds were playing hide and seek by covering the massive glaciers. There was a crater down below where people had camped. We were the only ones at the peak when we reached.
The mountain had called us. We did not feel hungry and started descending around 1:30 pm. It took us three and a half hours to get to Barafu camp. I sprained my left knee while coming down and that slowed me down. We took a short break of 40 minutes in which we ate, packed and rested. Afterwards, began the descent to Millennium camp in the dark and quiet for the next 3 hours. On reaching the camp, we went directly to sleep to wake up straight at 6:00 am the next morning.
Day 7:
Millennium camp to Mweka gate, approx. 20km
After a good night’s sleep and hearty breakfast, the crew celebrated our ascent up to the Kibo by singing and dancing on Jambo Kilimanjaro. We gave our tips and started the last leg of the descent to Mweka gate. We were at the gate around 2 pm. It was one of the most painful descent for me because of the sprain.
The nature was very kind to us. Also, the crew was very good . “Asaante sana” to everyone and for everything. The importance of a good shower and a clean bed was revealed that day.
